West Coast South Island
From Motueka across to the west coast it's worth spending an extra hour driving to see the Buller gorge and the pancake rocks near Punakaiki.
Of the glacier towns, Franz Josef is a bit busier and more lively. The approach to the face of the glacier is an easier walk too - perhaps explaining why the guided strings of hikers climbing the steep face of the glacier were almost unbroken here. We'd chosen to go heli-hiking at Fox so as to miss this slow ascent on dirty ice but unfortunately the weather was too bad for the trip to go ahead.
Another disappointment was our failure to see any kea (alpine parrots) in the wild. They're found over Arthur's Pass (at higher altitude than the Haast crossing of the Southern Alps) and often in the glacier car parks. Despite these small setbacks we thoroughly enjoyed spending New Year here.
Highlights
Buller gorge
A beautiful drive. The road is lined with ferns and foxgloves, the hillsides covered in mature bush and the Buller turns gradually from a narrow torrent of white water into a wide slate-green channel dotted with red and yellow kayaks.
Pancake rocks
Best at high tide, but great geology with or without tall spouts of water.
Both glaciers
The approach walks to the two glaciers are very different and both extremely impressive.
The rain!
Extra heavy rain (even for the west coast) while we were there meant that all the rivers and streams turned into torrents. Amazing.
Lake Matheson
Even in bad weather this famous reflecting lake is serene (apart from the bus tours).
Eating
Landing Cafe, Franz Josef
Excellent for dinner.
Everywhere in Fox
Had poor service and mediocre food.
Sleeping
Glenfern Motor Lodge
Very clean, new and well kitted out although may start to age badly in the next couple of years.
