Dr and Mrs Rock

Sognefjord

The longest and deepest fjord in the world, this area is the centre of the whirlwind "Norway in a Nutshell" trip so popular with tourists.

Ferries travel regularly up and down the fjord from Bergen to Sogndal, calling at several towns on the way and connecting with the famous railway at Flåm.

Highlights

Sognefjord

The fjord itself is beautiful. Car and passenger ferries are comfortable, run to time and are a great way to admire the scenery. In more remote areas of the fjord and its connecting arms tourists become fewer and the foot ferries become more informal. Locals sit on deck drinking beer on their way to weekend hytte parties and bottlenosed dolphins keep pace with the boat, eyeing you curiously through the low windows.

The Flåm railway

The accepted way to ride the Flåm railway is first to catch a regular train from Bergen to Myrdal, a tiny mountain station generally crammed with tourists. Everyone boards the Flåm train here and competes for a window seat.

The railway is celebrated as being one of the steepest in the world and one of the most scenic. It is undoubtedly a feat of engineering and it's also very pretty; however I found the cheesy commentary and gimmicky photo stops detracted from my enjoyment of the ride almost as much as the jostling tourists.

Flåm station on Aurlandsfjord doesn't have much going for it. All the eating places are crowded and overpriced and there are other fjordside spots just as gorgeous-looking where you can enjoy the scenery in peace. Overall though, the Flåm railway is worth the trip if you have a spare day in your itinerary and if you approach it with a sense of humour.

Nærøyfjord

This is the narrowest arm of the Sognefjord. Dramatic and unspoiled, it has its own microclimate and is often dry or only drizzly when nearby areas are drenched. Guided kayaking trips let you paddle with a small group down the fjord. I found this similar to kayaking in New Zealand's Doubtful Sound, except instead of boarding a motorised boat for squashed packed lunches, we landed on a little beach and our guide cooked delicious steaks on a barbecue.

Stave churches

This area of the country has quite a few easily accessible old stave churches. Up close, picture postcard Borgund stavkirke is rustic to the point of decrepitude but rivals the Vatican for an atmosphere of religious history.

Glaciers

It's quite easy to take a trip up to or onto a glacier at the north side of Sognefjord. I ran out of time to do this, so can't comment.

Voss

Included in the "Norway in a Nutshell" trip, Voss is mainly a winter destination for good skiing. In the summer the chairlifts still run and there are some lovely hiking trails around the whole area. The lake is pretty and Fleischer's hotel or self-catering cabins which overlook the lake are a great place to stay.