Oamaru
Dunedin marks a return to civilisation after the remoteness of the Catlins Coast. The coastal drive north from here is pretty and a stop at the Moeraki boulders obligatory. Oamaru is a small quiet town best known for its white limestone buildings and penguin colonies. Sadly the local yellow-eyed penguin population was wiped out by disease in 2004.
If I had the choice to own a house anywhere in New Zealand, the area around Oamaru would be high on the list. It seems prosperous without being overtly touristy (organic fruit-and-veg shops instead of arty galleries), it's accessible, peaceful and the seaside villages are gorgeous.
Highlights
The Moeraki boulders
Right by the side of the road. Very cool - shame about the little tourist tat shops.
Watching little blue penguins
At the colony in Oamaru harbour. One of the only places to get a good view of these penguins coming ashore since they only do so after dark. The large grandstand and floodlights don't seem to affect the penguins, which have been monitored closely for several years now. We found the number of noisy tourists offputting and the whole experience much nicer after about 11.00 pm when everyone else left!
Eating
Oamaru
Nowhere remarkable that we noticed.
Sleeping
Stone Stable Cottage
In Kakanui, 5 minutes drive from Oamaru - a gorgeous old stone cottage, beautifully refurbished and plentifully provisioned. By far the nicest place we stayed on the whole trip and not the most expensive. Kakanui is a lovely seaside village with a surfing beach and a whole bunch of organic fruit and veg shops. We booked the accommodation through NZ homestay. The owners, Dorothy and Duncan, were great.
Photos
Unfortunately photography was prohibited at the penguin colony and we were all suffering too much from Doubtful Sound's sandfly bites to have the presence of mind to photograph the cottage at Kakanui. Please do check out the website as the cottage is beautiful.
