Kaikoura
Kaikoura is a small place on the east coast of the south island, a couple of hours drive north of Christchurch or south of Picton. It's touristy in a charming, small-town sort of way and absolutely beautiful. Most people visit to go whale watching or swimming with seals or dolphins.
Highlights
Whale watching
Both times we've been out with Whale Watch Kaikoura we've seen sperm whales, dolphins and seals. Their trips are slick and professional with plenty of background information accompanied by excellent computer graphics. The whole experience is inevitably a bit commercial with up to two whale watching boats, one plane and one helicopter all searching for whales at the same time. However the guidelines for whale encounters are followed strictly and the animals never give the appearance of feeling harassed by all the attention. We would have liked the trip to last three times as long, but are probably in the minority there. It's about the right length for most people's boredom threshold - after all, sperm whales don't actually do very much.
Peninsula walk
A beautiful cliff-top walk starting at the seal colony. Well worth it on a sunny day and good for bird watching.
Getting there
From the north the journey is stunning - past pink salt flats and fields full of deer with the Kaikoura Ranges towering on one side, black pebble beaches battered by the Pacific on the other and only cabbage trees to block the view. From the south the road squeezes through a couple of small tunnels and passes a huge and rather whiffy seal colony, but the views are just as amazing. The train journey from Picton (linking with the North Island ferry) is sublime. The backpacker carriages have only slightly smaller windows but are cheaper than regular seats.
Eating
Whale Watch Cafe
Excellent for breakfast, snacks and lunch. Nice atmosphere and a good location right on the beach.
Hislop's Organic Cafe
Great for lunch or afternoon tea but not very good value for dinner.
Donegal's Irish Pub
A lovely spot with beautiful gardens but terrible music, awful Guinness and cold but overcooked food. Maybe best just to pop in for a lager shandy and let the kids chase the peacocks around a bit.
Sleeping
There's a huge choice of places to stay.Lazy Shag Backpackers
Has a couple of double rooms with ensuite as well as standard backpacker's dorms. Small and quite basic but very cheap, central and with lovely views of the mountains. Good budget option, especially if you're on public transport.
