Catlins Coast
Bluff, the southern end of the Catlins coast, is the departure point for Stewart Island and most tourists seem to come here only to get on a ferry. The town is surprisingly industrial and almost everything was closed when we were here in peak season. The Maritime Museum was interesting but we didn't find anything else to hold us in Bluff.
The Catlins Heritage Trail is largely unsealed road with lots of small detours along the way to places of interest. We skipped all the walks to waterfalls but got very close to sealions at Waipapa Point and took photos at Slope Point, the South Island's most southerly point.
The extensive fossil forest at Curio Bay was impressive but we lingered at Porpoise Bay. This is a lovely beach with gentle surf, huge rock pools and resident Hectors dolphins. Further north, Nugget Point is a worthwhile detour off the main road.
Highlights
Porpoise Bay
Hectors dolphins come very close to the shore here and when we were there even stopped to play with a snorkeling paua collector. The beach is unspoiled and touristy on only a very small scale.
Curio Bay
In the evening during the breeding season yellow-eyed penguins come ashore here and cross the rocks to their chicks. From the cliff top we had a perfect view (although binoculars are a plus) and watched for an hour or two. It was disturbing to see several people disregard the prominent DOC notice boards detailing appropriate behaviour for penguin viewing and stand between the penguins and their burrows, taking flash photographs.
Nugget Point
A spectacular cliff top point with views down to the Nuggets, flat-topped stacks with kelp hula skirts swaying in the tide and colonies of fur seals, elephant seals and sealions lazing on top.
Eating
Self catering is the order of the day.Waikawa
Has one tiny cafe/shop which serves good pies.
Porpoise Bay
Has a camp site shop with a slightly better selection than Waikawa.
Sleeping
Porpoise Bay
Has a good campsite overlooking the beach and Curio Bay. Otherwise accommodation choice seems to be limited. All B&Bs we saw looked run down and the farmstays are miles inland.
Governors Cottage, Waikawa
We booked this on the internet and were very disappointed. Not renovated or decorated since the 50's, it had an outside toilet, rotten decking and a leaky bedroom ceiling.
