Antarctica, Port Lockroy
Day 7, landing 3; Port Lockroy
Not originally on our timetable, this extra landing at Port Lockroy was made possible when another vessel cancelled their visit at the last minute. An old British research station which closed in 1962, Bransfield House was designated an historic site, restored and renamed in 1996. It is now staffed during the summer on behalf of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust.
The inside of the building (with the exception of one room, which is set aside as a shop and post office) is done out just as a 1950's research station would have been, from the jars of marmite and Lyon's syrup in the pantry to the woollen long-johns drying over the Aga. Antarctic researchers in those days suffered not only the mental challenges of isolation, months of darkness and the enforced company of their hut-mates which are still faced today, but also certain physical privations. I'm sure the buildings weren't heated to the comfortable level we found inside the Vernadsky, and the business of chipping ice to melt was such a chore that bathing was somewhat infrequent. I suppose each generation sees a step change in what's considered minimum comfort levels. In the early 1900's men pooled their limited stock of books and read by candlelight. In the middle part of the century urgent requisitions were sent by telegram for the replenishment of gin supplies by the next passing vessel; and in the early 2000's it's considered unfortunate that although e-mail is an essential tool, the internet is still not widely available at Antarctic stations.
Research still goes on at Port Lockroy into the effect of tourism on the local penguin colonies. Nest and chick numbers are meticulously counted to give a comparison of breeding success between the two sides of the island - one which is heavily visited by tourists and one which receives no human traffic. The gentoos nesting under and around the museum building certainly gave the impression of thriving around all the people and the research so far bears this out.
